Step Into Liquid

00:00:54 l'm Dana Brown, and l'm a surfer.

00:05:15 lt's still big when you're an adult, because it's a better story.

00:09:15 l came out of the barrel. l hit what they call a phantom chop.

00:13:09 There's a huge amount of water here.

00:17:00 There's waves out here that are not meant to be ridden.

00:21:34 lt's just so much a part of his life

00:24:59 and l'm pretty sure that she'd never seen surfing before in her life.

00:29:03 there was absolutely no separation between them.

00:32:13 He has a great heritage, and passed that heritage and that stoke on to his son.

00:35:18 And then the journey doesn't really begin

00:38:19 He's still willing to, like, hey, you know, you like to surf.

00:41:15 "or like this, nice and glassy?"

00:44:19 His posse consists of a dog named Reef.

00:47:42 That's the life of a pro surfer.

00:51:59 Some men don't do what they do. And, well, it's...

00:55:37 They're a group of lifelong friends famous in the water for their big-wave ability

00:59:09 l appreciate their sick humor.

01:02:42 l think this is where they came up with the idea for the hydrofoil.

01:05:59 lt reminds me of the first time l went surfing.

01:09:35 You'd think a small island like this, doing a lot of inbreeding

01:14:09 You know, your odds are pretty much against you.

01:17:19 You're riding a mountain in the ocean, there's nothing in front of you.

01:22:26 You can talk about it forever and ever.

02:05:00 of ocean between them