Riding Giants

00:31:33 Following the film release of Gidget...

00:34:42 ... became a morass of turbulent, six-story storm surf.

00:37:07 All that remains are the memories of the handful of surfers...

00:39:21 Two professional big-wave riders...

00:42:41 Jeff went out there for the first time and rode it by himself...

00:45:31 ...and it was way gnarlier.

00:48:05 Heart in your throat, paddling as if catching a wave...

00:51:06 I have to overcome that safety mechanism that wants to rise up...

00:54:02 ... while he was repeatedly battered by incoming white water.

00:56:42 ...to have the Hawaiians paddling out: Brock Little, Mark Foo, Ken Bradshaw.

00:59:45 The reason I think his leg rope got caught in the rocks...

01:02:11 ...when I'm sitting out there at the peak, by myself...

01:04:48 It was just, "I love this child."

01:06:54 He used to dream of wishing that he had brown skin, to be Hawaiian.

01:09:09 really widely used.

01:11:28 "Oh, wow, we can catch waves. We might be able to ride bigger waves."

01:14:48 I think that's really where we shifted gears.

01:18:12 I better shut up.

01:20:40 And how much time I have from where I am to get to him...

01:24:19 ...that draws something out of you.

01:28:29 That a wave could be so powerful and cylindrical?

01:31:07 ...how did his mind say, "This is what I have to do."

01:34:46 ... from George Downing to Greg Noll...

01:39:22 ...if you get wrapped up on the bottom or on somebody else.