Riding Giants

00:31:33 Following the film release of Gidget...

00:34:42 ... became a morass of turbulent, six-story storm surf.

00:37:11 ... who were there that day to witness his momentous ride.

00:39:26 ... to the challenge of riding giant Waimea.

00:42:52 People just didn't believe me.

00:45:45 Within 30 seconds, I couldn't feel my hands or feet.

00:48:24 You pray the one you barely made it over is gonna get you to the next one.

00:51:32 I'm getting just worked.

00:54:38 ... and was trapped when his leash became hooked onto Sail Rock.

00:57:06 This was one of the best days of surfing I've ever had out there.

01:00:15 ...it was Foo trying to get to the surface.

01:02:53 A year to the day after Foo's death, during a memorial tribute session...

01:05:18 ... as one of the sport's most popular and stylish surfers...

01:07:35 During that time period, Pipeline Beach was the mecca of surfing...

01:09:57 Episodes like this made it clear that when it came to riding...

01:13:11 ...on this big, giant board, there's no crowd there.

01:16:08 We knew that we had discovered...

01:19:03 Challenging waves in the 50- and 60-foot range...

01:22:04 It is pure love: "Thank you, buddy.

01:25:50 And he said, you know, "It would sort of be like...

01:29:58 I think it's the single heaviest thing I've ever seen in surfing.

01:32:31 ...what I've been able to have, experience, do.

01:37:13 To me, I mean, the Grand Canyon pales compared to, like, Mavericks.

05:00:00 to 2 or 3 million people doing it.